Crete (Rethymno)
Venetian old town, the palm beach of Preveli, the Arkadi Monastery and the wild Amari valley.
Rethymno is the most perfectly preserved Venetian town in Crete — a compact old city of minarets, loggia, and fountains, with a fortress rising above the harbour. The region also contains the Preveli palm forest beach, the Kourtaliotiko Gorge, and some of the wildest mountain villages on the island. It feels less touristy than Heraklion or Chania despite being equally beautiful.
Getting there
Rethymno has no airport and no commercial ferry port. Arrive via Chania (1h drive west) or Heraklion (1h drive east). The old port handles only excursion boats.
Read full route
Tip: Chania airport is closer and usually has cheaper flights than Heraklion.
When to Visit
Rethymno's medieval old town and long sandy beach work different seasons. The Fortezza and tavernas open year-round; the beach window is May-October. Late September is when the locals breathe out — grape harvest, sea still warm. Easter celebrations in the mountain villages of Anogeia and the Amari valley are particularly intense.
4-day itinerary for Crete (Rethymno)
Day 1: Rethymno Old Town
- 09:00 · Fortezza Fortress
The largest Venetian fortress in Crete, dominating the town from its hilltop. The interior holds a mosque, churches and excellent views over the sea and old town. - 10:30 · Venetian Harbour
The smallest and most charming Venetian harbour in Crete — a perfect semicircle with a lighthouse at the entrance and fish tavernas lining the quay. - 11:30 · Old Town Rethymno
Wander the narrow lanes of the old town — the best-preserved Venetian and Ottoman architecture in Crete. The Rimondi Fountain, the Nerantzes Mosque and the loggia are highlights. - 🍴 Stop for lunch · Old Town — see Eat & Drink below
- 16:30 · Rethymno Beach
12km of sandy beach stretching east from the old town. Town beach section is conveniently close and reasonably uncrowded outside peak season.
Day 2: Preveli & the Palm Beach
- 09:30 · Kourtaliotiko Gorge
🚗 ≈45 min south of Rethymno
Dramatic gorge on the road south to Preveli. Eagles nest in the cliffs, and a small chapel of Agios Nikolaos sits beside a waterfall and springs. - 10:30 · Preveli Monastery
16th-century monastery perched on a cliff above the Libyan Sea. Played an important role sheltering Allied soldiers during WWII. Museum and church open to visitors. - 12:00 · Preveli Beach
One of the most extraordinary beaches in Greece — a river flanked by Cretan date palms flows into the sea through a gorge, creating a small tropical lagoon. Accessible by boat from Plakias or via a 30-minute hike. - 15:30 · Plakias Beach
Long sandy beach in a relaxed south-coast resort. Good for a late afternoon swim. The town has excellent tavernas for dinner. - 20:00 · Return to Rethymno
Drive back to Rethymno (about 1 hour from Plakias on the mountain road through Spili — beautiful at golden hour). Dinner in the Venetian harbour or the back streets of the old town.
Day 3: Arkadi & the Amari Valley
- 09:30 · Arkadi Monastery
🚗 ≈30 min inland
The most sacred monument in Crete — scene of the 1866 explosion where hundreds of Cretans chose death over surrender to the Ottomans. Magnificent Baroque facade. - 11:30 · Amari Valley
The most beautiful valley in Crete — a fertile basin beneath the Psiloritis summit, dotted with Byzantine chapels, ancient plane trees and traditional villages. Drive the circular route. - 13:00 · Thronos Village
Tiny village in the Amari Valley with a Byzantine mosaic floor beneath the village church. Lunch at the excellent local taverna Aravanes — mountain food at its best. - 15:30 · Mount Psiloritis Viewpoint
Crete's highest peak at 2456m. Drive to the Nida plateau at 1400m for sweeping views — the Ideon Cave (birthplace of Zeus, alternate tradition) is a 20-minute walk from the plateau. - 20:00 · Return to Rethymno
Drive back through the Amari valley to Rethymno (about 1 hour). After a full day of monasteries and mountain villages, the lights of the old town are a welcome sight.
Day 4: East Coast & Bali
- 09:30 · Bali Village
Small resort built around three scenic coves east of Rethymno. The most beautiful of the coves is Livadi, with clear water and a taverna on the beach. - 11:30 · Panormo Beach
Sandy beach in a quiet village east of Bali. Good facilities, calm water, and a better-value alternative to the more crowded resorts. - 🍴 Stop for lunch · Rethymno — see Eat & Drink below
Top beaches of Crete (Rethymno)
Preveli Beach
The most unique beach in Crete — a Cretan date palm forest lines a river that flows through a gorge and meets the sea in a small turquoise lagoon. You can swim in both the river and the sea. Accessible only by boat or on foot, which keeps it wonderfully uncrowded.
- Type
- Pebble and sand
- Length
- 300 m
- Depth
- Medium to deep — river lagoon on one side, open sea on the other
- Wind protection
- South-facing — sheltered from the meltemi (the summer N/NE wind); calm in summer, exposed only to rare southern winds
- Facilities
- Basic: small café on the beach. Access by boat from Plakias (30 min) or 30-minute hike from the car park.
Plakias Beach
A long, wide south-coast beach backed by a relaxed village with excellent tavernas. The Libyan Sea is warmer and bluer than the north coast. Base yourself here for easy access to Preveli. One of the best value destinations on the island.
- Type
- Fine grey sand
- Length
- 2 km
- Depth
- Medium — good swimming, some wave action from the south
- Wind protection
- South-facing — sheltered from the meltemi (the summer N/NE wind); calm in summer, exposed only to rare southern winds
- Facilities
- Good: sunbeds, tavernas, accommodation. Quiet south-coast resort feel.
Bali Livadi Beach
The most picturesque of Bali's three coves — a small pebble beach enclosed by hills, with a taverna at the waterline. The water clarity is outstanding. Arrive early as space is limited.
- Type
- Pebble
- Length
- 200 m
- Depth
- Medium to deep — rocky seabed, excellent snorkelling
- Wind protection
- North-facing — fully exposed to the meltemi (the dominant summer N/NE wind); often choppy June–September
- Facilities
- Moderate: sunbeds, beach taverna. One of three coves in the Bali resort.
Rethymno Town Beach
One of the longest beaches in Greece — 12km of sandy shore stretching east from the old town. The town section is convenient but busy; walk 20 minutes east for more space. Excellent for families with its flat, shallow entry.
- Type
- Fine sand
- Length
- 12 km
- Depth
- Shallow — very gradual, safe for children
- Wind protection
- North-facing — fully exposed to the meltemi (the dominant summer N/NE wind); often choppy June–September
- Facilities
- Fully developed: all facilities for 12km. Town section most convenient, eastern section quieter.
Triopetra Beach
A remote south-coast beach named for three large rocks that protrude from the sea. Long, sandy and almost empty even in peak season. The drive there — through mountain villages and olive groves — is half the pleasure.
- Type
- Fine sand
- Length
- 1.5 km
- Depth
- Medium — open south coast, some wave action
- Wind protection
- South-facing — sheltered from the meltemi (the summer N/NE wind); calm in summer, exposed only to rare southern winds
- Facilities
- Basic: two small tavernas, some sunbeds. Remote and peaceful.