Crete (Lasithi)
4.0/5Spinalonga, Vai palm forest and the wild east of Crete
From the cosmopolitan gulf of Agios Nikolaos to the wild east — Spinalonga, Vai, the Minoan palace of Zakros and the gorge of the dead.
Why 4.0: serious walking country — but it is not one of the cheap islands and you cannot do it without a car.
Lasithi is Crete's eastern region, and the further east you drive the emptier it gets. It is the most off-the-beaten-path of Crete's four regions — and the most rewarding for those who make the effort: Agios Nikolaos, built around the bottomless Lake Voulismeni; Spinalonga, Greece's last leper colony, closed in 1957 and reached by boat from Elounda every half hour; Vai, where 5,000 Cretan date palms line a golden cove — Europe's only natural palm forest beach; and at the far east the Minoan palace of Kato Zakros, the one palace never looted in antiquity. The landscape becomes more dramatic and undeveloped the further east you go: the Gorge of the Dead drops 8 km past Minoan cave tombs to the sea, a 2.5-hour walk and far quieter than Samaria. Skip it if you won't drive — the region covers 1,823 km² and nothing in the east joins up without a car — and don't expect Vai to yourself in July or August, when it is packed by midday and Elounda is full of resort guests. Come in June or September instead: warm, calm, swimmable and empty.
Good for
- Travellers who want the least-touristed corner of Crete — the east gets emptier the further you drive
- Anyone drawn to Spinalonga and Vai — the leper-colony island off Elounda and Europe's only natural palm forest
- Walkers and heat-dodgers — the Lasithi plateau sits at 1,000 metres and stays 8-10°C cooler than the coast
Maybe skip if
- If you won't drive — Lasithi covers 1,823 km² and nothing in the east joins up without a car
- If you want the palm beach to yourself in July or August — Vai is packed by mid-day and Elounda is full of resort guests
Getting there
Sitia has a small domestic airport (Olympic, Sky Express). Ferries to Sitia from Piraeus 3–4× weekly.
Most travellers fly to Heraklion (1.5–2h drive east to Agios Nikolaos) since flight options are richer.
Tip: Heraklion airport beats Sitia for flight options — drive east in 1.5h.
Best time to visit Crete (Lasithi)
Eastern Crete is the least-touristed corner of the island — Lasithi prefecture covers Agios Nikolaos, Sitia, Spinalonga, Itanos, the palm beach at Vai. The east is hotter and drier than the west; June and late September are perfect, August is for nightlife seekers in Malia (avoid). The Lasithi plateau windmills bloom in May.
Top beaches of Crete (Lasithi)
Vai Beach
The only natural palm forest beach in Europe — 5000 Cretan date palms line a golden sand cove at the very tip of Crete. The combination of tropical vegetation and Aegean blue water is unlike anywhere else in Greece. Arrive early — it gets extremely busy by midday in summer.
- Type
- Fine golden sand
- Length
- 500 m
- Depth
- Shallow to medium — calm, clear water
- Wind
- Avoid visiting when the wind blows from the north to east at over 5 Bft. Northeast-facing — exposed to the meltemi (the dominant summer N/NE wind); often windy on meltemi days
- Facilities
- Organised: sunbeds, umbrellas, restaurant, parking (paid). Protected national park — no camping.
Voulisma Beach
The finest beach near Agios Nikolaos — a wide crescent of golden sand with crystalline water near Istro. Consistently ranked among the best beaches in eastern Crete, yet surprisingly uncrowded compared to the west coast beaches.
- Type
- Fine golden sand
- Length
- 800 m
- Depth
- Shallow to medium — clear, warm water
- Wind
- Avoid visiting when the wind blows from the north to east at over 5 Bft. Northeast-facing — exposed to the meltemi (the dominant summer N/NE wind); often windy on meltemi days
- Facilities
- Fully organised: sunbeds, water sports, taverna. One of the best-equipped beaches in the east.
Xerokampos Beach
Three remote, wild beaches in the far southeast of Crete, reachable only by rough road. Almost no tourists even in August. The Libyan Sea here is the warmest water in Crete. For those who want complete solitude in a dramatically beautiful setting.
- Type
- Sand and fine pebble mix
- Length
- 3 beaches, each 200-400m
- Depth
- Medium — warm Libyan Sea, excellent visibility
- Wind
- Avoid visiting when the wind blows from the southeast to southwest at over 4 Bft. South-facing — sheltered from the meltemi (the summer N/NE wind); calm in summer, exposed only to rare southern winds
- Facilities
- Very basic: one small taverna-rooms. No sunbeds. Accessible only by rough road.
Almyros Beach
Long sandy beach just south of Agios Nikolaos where a freshwater river meets the sea, creating a natural lagoon. Flamingoes sometimes visit in spring. Calm, warm water and convenient location make it the best easy beach in the region.
- Type
- Fine sand
- Length
- 2 km
- Depth
- Shallow — freshwater spring creates a lagoon section
- Wind
- Avoid visiting when the wind blows from the northeast to southeast at over 5 Bft. East-facing — mostly sheltered from the meltemi (the summer N/NE wind); can be choppy on the strongest NE days
- Facilities
- Good: sunbeds, tavernas, easy parking. Close to Agios Nikolaos.
Kouremenos Beach
The windsurfing capital of Crete near Palekastro — consistent winds and a long pebble beach make it world-class for water sports. The water is exceptionally clear. Not for those seeking a quiet beach day, but perfect for kitesurfers and windsurfers.
- Type
- Pebble
- Length
- 800 m
- Depth
- Medium — clear, cold, excellent for windsurfing
- Wind
- Avoid visiting when the wind blows from the northeast to southeast at over 4 Bft. East-facing — mostly sheltered from the meltemi (the summer N/NE wind); can be choppy on the strongest NE days
- Facilities
- Moderate: two windsurfing schools, taverna, simple rooms. Not ideal for sunbathing.
4-day itinerary for Crete (Lasithi)
Read the day-by-day plan on its own page →
Day 1: Agios Nikolaos & Elounda
- 09:00 · Agios Nikolaos Town
The most elegant town in Crete — a cosmopolitan harbour built around a bottomless lake connected to the sea by a channel. Excellent cafes, restaurants and a Archaeological Museum.
- 09:30 · Lake Voulismeni
The famous bottomless lake at the heart of Agios Nikolaos. According to legend, Athena and Artemis bathed here. Lined with cafes — the best coffee spot in the region.
- 11:00 · Elounda
Upmarket resort village on a sheltered gulf with calm, crystal-clear water. Base for the Spinalonga boat trip. The sunken city of Olous is visible underwater at the causeway.
- 14:00 · Schisma Beach Elounda
Calm sandy beach in the sheltered gulf of Elounda. The water here is noticeably warmer and calmer than the open sea. Ideal for families. - 🍴 Stop for dinner · Elounda & Agios Nikolaos — see Eat & Drink below
- 22:30 · Evening in Agios Nikolaos
Short 15-minute drive back from Elounda to Agios Nikolaos. Walk along Lake Voulismeni for a nightcap — the lake is lit and busy late.
Day 2: Spinalonga & Kritsa
- 09:00 · Spinalonga Island
Greece's last active leper colony, closed in 1957. The Venetian fortress walls, abandoned streets and the church of Agios Georgios create one of the most atmospheric sites in the Aegean. Boats from Elounda and Plaka every 30 minutes.
- 12:30 · Kritsa Village
One of the largest and most beautiful traditional villages in Crete. Famous for woven lace textiles and the Byzantine church of Panagia Kera — the finest Byzantine frescoes on the island.
- 14:30 · Ancient Lato
Remarkably preserved Dorian city-state perched on a twin-peaked hill above Kritsa. Rarely visited, free entry, and extraordinary views over the gulf of Agios Nikolaos.
- 16:30 · Almyros Beach
Long sandy beach 2km south of Agios Nikolaos. A freshwater river runs into the sea here, creating a natural lagoon — flamingoes visit in spring. - 20:00 · Evening in Agios Nikolaos
Almyros is essentially the southern edge of Agios Nikolaos — a 5-minute drive or 25-minute walk along the coast brings you back to the lake. Dinner around Lake Voulismeni; the harbour cafés stay open late.
Day 3: Vai Palm Beach & the Far East
- 09:30 · Sitia Town
🚗 ≈1 hr 15 east of Agios Nikolaos
Relaxed, unspoiled town on the far east coast. Visit the Archaeological Museum for the extraordinary Palaikastro Kouros — the finest Minoan ivory statuette ever found.
- 11:00 · Vai Beach
Europe's only natural palm forest beach — 5000 Cretan date palms line a sandy cove at the far northeast tip of Crete. Unique and spectacular. Can get very crowded in high summer — go before 10am. - 13:00 · Itanos Ruins
Ancient city ruins on the headland just north of Vai. Scattered columns, cisterns and walls above a wild pebble beach. Free, unguarded and completely empty.
- 15:00 · Palekastro
Quiet village near an extensive Minoan settlement. The nearby Kouremenos beach is the windsurfing capital of Crete — worth a stop on the way back to Sitia for the night.
- 19:30 · Dinner in Sitia
Drive back to Sitia (about 25 minutes from Palekastro). The Sitia waterfront tavernas serve until late, with the local Sitia wine PDO worth seeking out. - 🍴 Stop for dinner · Sitia — see Eat & Drink below
Day 4: Zakros & the Valley of the Dead
- 09:00 · Kato Zakros Palace
🚗 ≈1 hr from Sitia
The fourth great Minoan palace of Crete, excavated in 1962. Uniquely, it was never looted in antiquity — treasures found intact are now in the Heraklion museum. Set directly on the sea at a dramatic cove.
- 11:00 · Gorge of the Dead
Wild 8km gorge from the upper village to the palace. Minoan cave tombs are carved into the cliff walls. A 2.5-hour walk, much quieter than the Samaria Gorge.
- 14:00 · Xerokampos Beach
Series of remote, undeveloped beaches south of Zakros. Clear, warm Libyan Sea water, almost no tourists. The furthest you can get from the crowds in Crete. - 15:30 · Makrigialos Beach
Long, organised beach on the south coast — a good final swim before the long drive west. From here it's about 110 km / 1.5 hours back to Heraklion airport along the coastal road. - 18:00 · Heraklion — Departure
Arrive at Heraklion for ferry or flight. The longest single drive of the trip — but the Libyan Sea on your right the whole way back makes it bearable.
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