Kea (Tzia)
3.5/5The weekend hideaway of Athenians
The weekend hideaway of Athenians
Why 3.5: easy access — but it is not one of the cheap islands.
An hour from Lavrio, no airport and no Piraeus ferry — which is why Kea stays quiet. Locally it is called Tzia, and it is the closest real island to Athens: under two hours door to beach if you live in the city. The capital, Ioulida, is a car-free hilltop town of flat-roofed houses with red tiles, and half an hour along a marked trail from it lies the Lion of Kea, an archaic stone lion of the 6th century BC carved directly into the hillside. There are 80 km of marked old paths in all, walkable year-round, and a kitchen of its own: loza, pork loin marinated in red wine, smoked and air-dried, from the butchers in Ioulida, and paspalas at lunchtime in the tavernas there and at Vourkari. Skip it if you depend on Piraeus departures, or if you need a lively scene — weekend traffic dictates everything here, and midweek out of season the island is very quiet. September is the best month: sea at its warmest, the Athenian boats gone from Vourkari. Two days is enough.
Good for
- Hikers — Kea has 80 km of marked, walkable old paths and the famous archaic stone Lion
- Athenians who want a genuinely quiet weekend escape close to home
- Travellers who prefer tavernas full of locals to a tourist strip
Maybe skip if
- If you depend on Piraeus departures — Kea is reached only from Lavrio
- If you need a lively scene; midweek out of season the island is very quiet
Getting there
No airport, no ferry from Piraeus. Kea is served from Lavrio (1h east of Athens, very close to the airport). Frequent shuttle ferry to Korissia port, ~1h crossing.
Tip: Closest "real" island to Athens — under 2 hours door to beach if you live in the city.
Best time to visit Kea (Tzia)
Kea is the closest Cyclade to Athens — weekend traffic dictates everything. Off-season weekdays it's gloriously empty. Summer weekends are jammed with Athenian boats. Hike year-round; swim May through October.
Top beaches of Kea (Tzia)
Pisses
Kea's largest beach, framed by ancient olive trees. Great sunsets, good family beach.
- Type
- Fine sand
- Length
- 500 m
- Depth
- Gradual
- Wind
- Avoid visiting when the wind blows from the southwest to northwest at over 4 Bft. West-facing — sheltered from the meltemi (the summer N/NE wind); calm most summer days, sometimes choppy on rare westerly winds
- Facilities
- Tavernas, campsite, umbrellas
Otzias
Sheltered bay on the north coast. Calm, warm water, very family-friendly.
- Type
- Fine sand
- Length
- 400 m
- Depth
- Very shallow
- Wind
- Avoid visiting when the wind blows from the northwest to northeast at over 5 Bft. North-facing — fully exposed to the meltemi (the dominant summer N/NE wind); often choppy June–September
- Facilities
- Tavernas, umbrellas
Koundouros
Quiet cove with crystal-clear water. More upscale area with luxury hotels behind.
- Type
- Small pebbles
- Length
- 150 m
- Depth
- Moderate
- Wind
- Avoid visiting when the wind blows from the south to west at over 4 Bft. Southwest-facing — sheltered from the meltemi (the summer N/NE wind); calm in summer, exposed only to rare S/SW winds
- Facilities
- Hotel, beach bar
2-day itinerary for Kea (Tzia)
Read the day-by-day plan on its own page →
Day 1: Ioulida & the Lion
- 10:00 · Korissia (port)
Ferry port on the west coast. Small sandy beach right at the port. Coffee at Aristos on the waterfront. - 11:30 · Ioulida (Chora)
Car-free hilltop capital. Gorgeous amphitheatrical layout, flat-roofed houses with red tiles. Walk the main pedestrian street.
- 13:00 · Lion of Kea
6th-century BC archaic stone lion carved directly into the hillside. 30-min walk from Ioulida via a marked trail. - 🍴 Stop for lunch · Vourkari & Otzias — see Eat & Drink below
- 17:00 · Otzias Beach
Enclosed sandy bay on the north coast, just past Vourkari. Family-friendly with shallow water and a sandy bottom, and three tavernas along the back of the beach. Less wind-exposed than the open eastern coast, which makes it the reliable choice when the meltemi blows.
Day 2: Southern Beaches & Monastery
- 09:30 · Vourkari Harbour
Yacht marina 2 km from Korissia, with chic waterfront cafés and the place where Athenians moor their boats for the weekend. The seafront promenade gets a young, mainland crowd in July and August — coffee in the morning, ouzo in the evening, the marina lights reflecting off the water. - 11:00 · Panagia Kastriani Monastery
Mountain monastery on a cliff edge on the north coast, reached by a paved road that ends in a small parking area. The chapel courtyard has views that stretch to Andros on clear days. A basic guesthouse next door — for the truly devout — has a handful of rooms with the same view. - 13:00 · Pisses Beach
Largest sandy beach on Kea, in a fertile valley with an ancient olive grove behind. Lunch at Akroygiali taverna. - 16:00 · Koundouros
Small sheltered cove at the island's southwest tip, with crystal water and a rocky entry — bring swim shoes. A single beach bar opens in season, otherwise nothing. The drive down is on a steep narrow road; the reward is one of the quietest swimming spots on the island.