Tilos in 2 Days
Livadia, Mikro Chorio ghost village and the abandoned bar Day 1, Megalo Chorio, the castle and Eristos Day 2.
Tilos in 2 days, day by day: what to see, in what order, how far you drive and where you sleep. Base: Livadia.
Livadia, Lethra Walk & the Ghost Village Bar
Livadia Port
The main port and most developed village β a mix of old and new on first glance, but lively in the late afternoon when the square fills up. Pedestrian-only beachfront walkway, tavernas, bakery, cafΓ©s, the pebbled town beach right at the harbour. Most of the island's residents live here.
Agiosykia Castle
On the hill directly above Livadia harbour β 15th-century Knights of St. John fortress, given to Barello Assanti d'Ischia to fortify the island against pirates. Only the defensive walls survive, but the panoramic view over Livadia bay and the open Aegean is the reward for a short climb.
Lethra Walk & Beach Swim π beach card Β· wind & conditions β
Tilos's most-loved coastal hike β a 45-minute walk from Livadia along the rocky coastline that ends at Lethra Beach, a wild pebble cove almost no one reaches by car. Bring water and swim shoes; the reward is one of the quietest beaches in the Dodecanese, where you'll often be the only visitors of the morning.
Mikro Chorio (Ghost Village)
3km from Livadia β a 15th-century village that housed 700 people, abandoned after WWII when residents moved down to the port. Stone houses in various states of collapse, a working church, a medieval castle ruin. Best time: late afternoon for photography; after 23:00 for the bar (see next stop).
Mikro Chorio Bar
One of the most atmospheric bars in Greece β operates only in summer, only after 23:00, in the ruins of an abandoned medieval village. Free shuttle bus from Livadia. No neighbours means no noise complaints. Drinks are a bit pricier than average but the experience is unmatched.
Charkadio Cave, Megalo Chorio Castle & Eristos
Charkadio Cave & Museum
Between Mikro Chorio and Megalo Chorio β the cave where fossilised dwarf elephants were discovered in the 1970s. The cave itself is closed to visitors but the small Paleontology Museum next door houses two skeletons of the 1.2m-tall elephants, plus fossils and skulls from the nearby Agios Antonios ancient cemetery. Unique in the Aegean.
Megalo Chorio (Capital)
The traditional capital on the slopes of Mount Stefanos. Whitewashed houses, bougainvillea, narrow alley-labyrinth, pebble-paved church courtyards. Until the early 18th century the entire population of Tilos lived within the castle walls above. The main church of Taxiarchis Michael has western architectural influences and a carved iconostasis by Smyrna craftsmen.
Castle of the Knights (Megalo Chorio)
15th-century Knights of St. John fortress on the natural peak of Mount Stefanos, built on the ancient acropolis. 20-30 minute steep hike up a rough path from Megalo Chorio β not for kids, no railings. The reward: the half-ruined Church of Agios Taxiarchis with original frescoes, ancient water tanks, ruins of the medieval town, and 360Β° views over Eristos Bay and Agios Antonios.
Eristos Beach π beach card Β· wind & conditions β
2.5km south of Megalo Chorio β the headline beach of the island. Long wide crescent of fine sand mixed with pebbles, tamarisk trees behind for shade, emerald water. Free campers pitch tents under the tamarisks. A canteen and beach cafΓ© in summer; no sunbeds. Easily the most popular beach on Tilos.
Agios Antonios & Plaka Beach π beach card Β· wind & conditions β
Small fishing village on the north coast with good taverns and a peaceful bay. Just beyond it, Plaka beach with its resident peacocks β pine trees for shade, pebbles, no sunbeds, no cafΓ©. The oddest-but-wonderful sight on the island: peacocks walking the pebbles.
Planning questions
Is 2 days enough for Tilos?
Yes, for a first visit. The plan covers the essentials at a pace that leaves time in the water. With one more day, add a slow beach day with no driving.
Do I need a car on Tilos?
It helps for a day or two, but the core of this plan works with the bus, taxis and boats.
Where should I stay on Tilos?
The plan sleeps in Livadia.